Tube Bender Die Compatibility: What Fits What, Brand by Brand

You’ve found a great deal on a used die. Or a friend has a box of dies from his old bender. Or you’re wondering if your new bender can take dies from a cheaper brand. It’s one of the most common questions in garage fab: are tube bender dies interchangeable? This guide to tube bender die compatibility sticks to what makers and retailers actually state, and says “unknown” everywhere else.

Dies are where the real money goes. The bender frame is a one-time purchase, but every tube size and every bend radius needs its own die set. So buying the wrong die isn’t a small mistake. It can mean a die that won’t seat, a pin that won’t go through, or a bend that comes out wrong.

Here’s what you’ll get: a compatibility matrix for popular benders from JD2, Rogue Fab, Baileigh, Pro-Tools, Woodward Fab, Eastwood and Harbor Freight. You’ll learn which parts of a die set have to match, how pin size and machine version change things, and a simple way to check fit before you spend a cent. Where nobody has published an answer, we’ll tell you to ask the maker.

Why tube bender dies rarely swap between brands

A rotary-draw die looks simple. It’s a round, grooved wheel with a clamp and a follower. But it has to match the bender in several hidden ways. The pin hole has to fit the bender’s main pin. The die’s height has to line up with the frame. The clamp and the follower block (some makers call it a counter die or pressure die) have to sit in the right place. And the drive features have to lock the die to whatever turns it.

Every maker designs those details for its own frames. There’s no shared industry standard for garage benders that we’ve seen any maker claim. So even two dies with the same tube size and the same centerline radius (CLR) can be completely different underneath.

Pin size is a good example. JD2 says its Model 32 uses large 1-1/4″ alloy pins, compared with 7/8″ pins on its Model 3 (JD2). That’s two benders from the same maker, with different pins. Rogue Fab says its benders built from 2023 use a 7/8″ main pin, while older ones may use 3/4″ (Rogue Fab FAQ).

That’s why this guide has one firm rule. If a maker or retailer hasn’t stated a fit, we don’t claim it. Forum posts and Q&A answers can be a lead for your own question to the maker. They aren’t a guarantee.

The tube bender die compatibility matrix

Here’s what makers and retailers state about die fit, checked in October 2026. Every row has a source link. The last column covers cross-brand fit, and for every row the answer is the same: no maker or retailer we found states it. So the honest entry is “Unknown, ask the maker.”

Bender	Dies the maker says fit	Limits or exceptions stated	Cross-brand fit	Source
JD2 Model 32	JD2 Model 32 dies	JD2 says no current models interchange except Model 3 dies in a Model 4	Unknown, ask the maker	JD2 FAQ
JD2 Model 4	Model 4 dies, plus Model 3 dies (Model 1, 2 and 3 sets per the manual)	Model 4 dies won’t work in a Model 3	Unknown, ask the maker	JD2 Model 4 manual
Rogue Fab M601, M605, M625	All M6xx dies shared across the three	Match pin size (7/8″ or 3/4″); pressure die capacity should match the model	Unknown, ask the maker	Rogue Fab FAQ
Baileigh RDB-050	RDB-050 tooling (90° and 180° sets)	Baileigh’s drop-on die sets say “Not RDB-050”	Unknown, ask the maker	Baileigh
Pro-Tools 105 SD and 105HD	Dies labelled for the 105 Standard Duty and Heavy Duty	Brute and Portabender have their own die pages	Unknown, ask the maker	Pro-Tools
Woodward Fab WFB2	Woodward die sets; maker says they also fit its WFPB1000 hydraulic bender	None stated	Unknown, ask the maker	Woodward Fab
Eastwood High Capacity	Eastwood High Capacity 120° and 240° dies	Eastwood says the dies are for round tube only	Unknown, ask the maker	Eastwood
Harbor Freight 12-ton	Six cast pipe dies, 1/2″–2″	Not for thin-wall pipe such as conduit or exhaust	Unknown, ask the maker	Harbor Freight

How to use the matrix

Find your bender’s row first. The second column tells you which dies the maker supports. The third column lists any limits the maker states, even within its own range. If you’re looking at a die from another brand, the answer is in the fourth column: unknown until the maker confirms it. Want to plan a full setup, including dies? Try our compatibility tool.

The safest die is the one the maker sells for your exact machine. Anything else is a question, not an answer.

Brand-by-brand die notes

The matrix gives you the short version. Here’s the detail behind each row, with the maker’s own wording where it matters.

JD2

JD2’s FAQ is unusually clear. Die sets are only interchangeable for Model 3 dies in a Model 4. Model 4 dies won’t work in a Model 3, and no other current models are interchangeable. The FAQ also notes that the older Model 1 uses Model 4 dies, and the Model 2 uses Model 3 dies. JD2’s Model 4 manual adds a practical note: older die sets often have 3 to 5 holes drilled through them. For the Model 32, buy Model 32 dies. A retailer, Trick-Tools, also notes that Model 32 dies over 2″ OD are recommended for hydraulic benders only.

Rogue Fab

Rogue says all its dies are shared across the M601, M605 and M625, and that a die bought for an M601 works on an M625 without changes. Two catches. First, pin size: 2023-and-later benders use a 7/8″ main pin, and older ones may use 3/4″. Second, Rogue’s FAQ says pressure die capacity should match the bender model. Moving from an M605 to an M625 needs a frame swap, but Rogue says the dies, hydraulics and cart carry over. See Rogue Fab M605 vs M625.

Baileigh

The RDB-050 has its own tooling. Baileigh’s RDB-050 tooling page lists 90° and 180° sets from 3/4″ to 2-1/2″ round tube. Each set includes a forming die, counter die and hook sleeve. Baileigh’s separate drop-on die sets fit its rotary-draw benders that accept drop-on tooling, but they’re marked “Not RDB-050”. For example, the 1-3/4″ × 6″ CLR drop-on set (DS-1750T-R600) isn’t for the RDB-050. The RDB-050 versions carry their own part numbers, such as DS-90-1750T-R600 and DS-180-1750T-R600.

Pro-Tools

Pro-Tools names its 105 dies for the 105 Standard Duty and Heavy Duty benders, in 90° and 180° versions. The Brute and the Portabender have their own die pages. A retailer also describes Pro-Tools 105 dies as fitting the MB-105 and MB-105HD. If you own a different Pro-Tools model, check the die title before you buy.

Woodward Fab

Woodward Fab says its die sets are compatible with its WFB2 manual bender and its WFPB1000 hydraulic bender. It lists 180° round tube dies, 180° Schedule 40 pipe dies, a 120° round tube family and 120° square dies. Read each die’s listing for its own capacity. More in our Woodward Fab WFB2 research review.

Eastwood

Eastwood’s High Capacity dies come in 120° and 240° versions, sold separately, for round tube only. Its Amazon die listings are labelled for the High Capacity bender. Eastwood’s separate Pro Former bender comes with its own dies, and we found no statement that they swap with the High Capacity.

Harbor Freight 12-ton

This ram bender ships with six cast dies for 1/2″ to 2″ Schedule 40 and 80 pipe. They’re pipe shoes for a ram press, not rotary-draw dies. Its manual says the bender isn’t intended for thin-wall pipe such as conduit or exhaust, so don’t plan on tube dies for it.

What has to match: the parts of a die set

When you ask “will this die fit?”, you’re really asking about several parts at once. Knowing their names helps you ask the maker a clear question, and it helps you spot a mismatch on a used die.

Part	What it does	What has to match
Forming die (bend die)	The grooved wheel the tube wraps around	Pin hole, height, drive features, tube OD and CLR
Clamp or hook sleeve	Grips the tube to the die at the start of the bend	The forming die it pairs with, and the tube OD
Follower, counter or pressure die	Supports the outside of the tube as it bends	The frame’s mounting point and the tube OD
Main pin	The pivot the forming die turns on	The die’s bore, such as 7/8″ or 3/4″ on Rogue Fab machines
Degree ring or stop	Shows or limits the bend angle	The die’s start point and the frame

Two more details sit on the die itself. The CLR is fixed by the die and sets the bend radius. Our guide on centerline radius explains it. The bend angle family matters too. Many makers sell a short die (90° or 120°) and a long die (180° or 240°) in the same size. Eastwood, for example, recommends 90° as the max with its 120° dies, and 180° with its 240° dies.

Die pin size and machine versions

Pin size is the quickest way to rule a die in or out. The pin is the round shaft the forming die turns on. If the die’s bore doesn’t match the pin, the die won’t seat properly. And the pin isn’t always the same, even within one brand.

• JD2: the Model 32 uses 1-1/4″ alloy pins, and the Model 3 uses 7/8″ pins, according to JD2.
• Rogue Fab: benders made in 2023 and later use a 7/8″ main pin. Earlier machines may use 3/4″. Rogue labels its die bundles by pin size, sells press-in 3/4″ bushings, and says you can measure the pin with calipers.
• Rogue Fab conversion kits: Rogue sells kits that bring older M600-series machines up to its current designs, including a 7/8″ pin kit that converts an M600xHD to an M625.
• Other brands: we didn’t find a published pin size for every model. Ask the maker.

How to measure your pin

Remove the forming die as your bender’s manual describes. Measure the pin’s diameter with calipers in two places, at right angles to each other. Write it down along with your machine’s model and, if you can find it, its year or serial number. That one note answers half the questions a maker will ask you.

Machine versions matter for more than pins. Makers improve frames and change parts over the years. A die that fits a current model may not fit a ten-year-old one with the same name. When you email a maker, always give the model, the year if you know it, and the pin size you measured.

How to check die fit before you buy

Here’s a simple routine that works for any brand. It takes ten minutes and an email. It can save you from a die that never fits.

1. Identify your bender exactly. Model name, version, year if known, and drive type. Check the frame for a plate or serial number.
2. Measure the pin. Use calipers on the main pin, as above.
3. Measure your tube. Real OD and wall, with calipers. Remember pipe sizes don’t match the real OD.
4. Pick the die family. Decide on the CLR and the angle family you need, such as 120° or 240°.
5. Find the maker’s part number. Look it up on the maker’s die page for your exact model.
6. Read the die listing. Check the “fits” line, the wall basis or wall limits, and any notes like “Not RDB-050”.
7. Ask in writing if anything is unclear. Email the maker your model, pin size, tube and the die part number. Keep the reply.
8. For used dies, ask for photos. Request clear shots of the bore, the clamp and the follower, plus any stamped part numbers.

If the maker says yes in writing, you’re set. If the answer is “maybe” or “it should”, treat it as a no until you’ve seen it on your machine. That sounds strict, but a die that half-fits is worse than no die at all.

Not sure which bender you’ll end up with? Our Find My Bender quiz helps you choose the type first. Then you can pick dies from the same maker.

Die ratings vs bender ratings

Compatibility isn’t only about fit. A die that fits can still be the wrong die for your tube. That’s because dies have their own ratings, and some makers publish them separately from the bender’s headline capacity.

Examples from maker listings

• Baileigh RDB-050: each die set notes the wall its CLR is based on. Baileigh lists .095″ for the 1-3/4″ × 6″ set, .109″ for 2″ × 6″, and .120″ for 2-1/2″ × 7″.
• Rogue Fab: its tube capacity chart gives a minimum and maximum wall for each die and material. For example, the 1.75″ × 6.0″ die lists .095″ minimum and .250″ maximum in carbon steel, with two pressure dies needed at .156″ and up.
• Woodward Fab: die listings carry their own max wall, such as .134″ on the 2″ × 6″ CLR die.
• Pro-Tools: minimum wall depends on the die, and Pro-Tools points you to its die charts.

So when you check a die, read two lines: “fits” and “capacity”. A die that fits your bender but is rated for a thinner wall than your tube is still the wrong die. Our tube bender capacity chart gathers these die-level numbers in one place.

Buying your first dies

The cheapest, safest way in is one die from your bender’s own maker, in the tube size you’ll use most. Add more as projects need them. Here are two die sets sold on Amazon for benders that are also on Amazon. They come from the same maker as the bender, so the fit is stated by the maker. These notes are based on published listings, not hands-on use.

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Woodward Fab 2″ × 6″ CLR die for the WFB2

Eastwood 1.75″ × 6″ CLR 240° die for the High Capacity

JD2, Rogue Fab and Pro-Tools sell their dies direct, and Baileigh lists RDB-050 tooling on its own site. For those, order from the maker’s die page for your exact model. Comparing whole machines rather than dies? See our tube bender comparison.

Used dies, bushings and “universal fit” claims

Used dies can be a smart buy, especially for common sizes. But a used die comes with no fit promise and no history, so you have to do the checking yourself.

What to ask a used-die seller

• Which bender, model and year was it used on?
• Is the full set there: forming die, clamp and follower?
• What’s the bore size, and can you send a photo with calipers on it?
• Are there part numbers stamped on the parts?
• Any cracks, gouges or weld repairs?

Bushings and adapters

Some makers offer their own way to bridge versions. Rogue Fab, for example, sells press-in 3/4″ bushings for older machines with smaller pins. That’s a maker solution within its own range. We found no maker that sells an adapter to run another brand’s dies, and we don’t recommend machining dies yourself to make them fit.

“Fits most benders” and Q&A answers

You’ll see owner answers in Q&A sections saying a die from one brand fits another. Some may be right. But an owner’s answer isn’t a maker’s promise, and it may be about a different version. Treat it as a reason to email the maker, not as proof.

These are composite stories. The same situations come up again and again in garage-fab forums and build threads.

Common die compatibility mistakes (and fixes)

These mistakes cost builders the most money and time. Each one has a simple fix.

Pro tips for building a die collection

Experienced builders treat dies as a long-term investment. These habits help your collection grow without waste.

• 💡 Pick a house size. Many builders design most projects around one or two tube sizes, so one die set does most of the work.
• 💡 Buy the long die first if you’ll ever need hoops. A 180° or 240° die covers short bends too. A short die can’t do hoops.
• 💡 Label everything. Mark each set with size, CLR, angle and pin size. Keep the clamp and follower with their die.
• 💡 Keep the paperwork. Save listings and maker emails that confirm fit. They matter when you resell or upgrade.
• 💡 Think about resale. Dies for popular benders in common sizes tend to be easier to sell on later.
• 💡 Upgrade within a family when you can. Rogue Fab, for example, says dies carry over from an M605 to an M625.

Frequently asked questions

Your die buying checklist

Run through this list before you order any die, new or used.

That’s the whole story on die fit. Buy from your bender’s maker when you can, measure your pin, read the “fits” line, and ask in writing whenever the answer isn’t clear. Your dies will last for years. ✅